Airsoft - Increasing Accuracy

After understanding the basics of how a gearbox works we can now go into some of the more complicated stuff such as increasing the accuracy of your gun.

One very important thing you want in an airsoft gun is accuracy. Before I get into how to increase your accuracy there is one thing I need to clear up. Accuracy is consistency, meaning you want your bb to travel where you are expecting it to go. The gun is always accurate in the sense that the bb will travel where it's going to travel, but you want to know where it will travel and you want it to go there every time.

One way of doing this is upgrading the quality of the inner barrel as well as the diameter of it. The tighter the inner barrel is the less room it has to veer off in a different direction. The quality of the inner barrel is key for overtime ware and are keeping it as seamless as possible.

Another way to increase accuracy is to upgrade the bucking (rubber piece on the barrel for hop up) and here you have a few options. You can simply go with a higher quality bucking or you can go with different styles. The typical style you will find in most guns is around oval being pushed down upon the bb from the top. This works but is not the most effective as if it is even 2mm off center your bb will veer off in a different direction then desired. 

Another form of hopup is called the flat hop. This is essentially a flat nub being applied to the bucking to give it an even flatness over the bb so that there is no one point that has more pressure on the bb. 

Then there is the r-hop, r-hop or round hop is a piece of rubber that is fitted over the window in the barrel and seamless with the outside of it as well as with the inside. It's essentially filling in the window as if it was never there but its rubber and not metal. This applies a more even spread of hopup going down nearly half way and has contact on all parts of the upper half of the bb. This is more consistent and so creates better accuracy.

The downside to an r-hop is it has to be very very precise, meaning that each rubber piece is fitted to the inner barrel and cannot be just bought and slapped on any old barrel. Which means either you do it yourself or you pay someone to do it for you, which is very expensive, costing anywhere from $40-150 depending on the length of the barrel.

Another way of creating consistency is to create a consistent air seal. Meaning the same amount of air is coming out every single time. One way of doing this is putting silicone lubricant on the o-rings inside the gearbox. This makes them puff out more which makes a tighter fit allowing no air to escape. Another way is to replace the parts creating the air seal with better quality stuff and dual o-rings making it nearly impossible for air to escape.

Airsoft - Into the Gearbox

For the most part, airsoft guns are very similar in their function, there is a gearbox inside the base of the gun that compresses air and releases it firing the bb forward.

There are 4 separate gears that travel from the motor to the piston which allows air to flow through the nozzle propelling the bb forward. The motor head has a small pinion gear that interacts with the bevel gear which interacts with the spur gear which interacts with the sector gear that pulls the piston back and springs forward which compresses air and releases that through the air nozzle at the top right of the gearbox. 

The air is compressed by a piston with a rubber seal being pulled back by the sector gear then shot forward by the spring. By replacing the spring you can increase or decrease the fps (feet per second) of the bbs. The stronger the spring is the faster the bb will travel. 

The trigger consists of two plates of metal touching which completes a circuit allowing power to flow to the motor. 
The sector gear has two metal nubs on it that pull back what is called a tappet plate. This pulls the nozzle back to load another bb into the hopup chamber.
Hopup Chamber.
Hopup applies backspin upon the bb as it flies through the barrel. It is not apart of the gearbox but attaches to it. To apply backspin there is a 1" rubber bucking that goes over the barrel and covers a little window in the barrel. Then there is a small nub that is applied over that window that interacts with the bb as it flies through which applies backspin allowing the bb to travel up, down or strait to allow it to go farther. 

SketchUp & Layout for Architecture | Texturing, Furniture, & Driveway

Once the initial schematic design is complete you can go through and add textures and fixings to fill up space and detect the rooms that need modifying and adjustments.

Do not spend too much time modeling the kitchen, the objective is to create a simple simulation of how the kitchen would be played out not every detail like trim, hinges, and knobs.

You want it simple so you can make fast changes as you go over the design with your client.

Use simple boxes to represent drawers and cupboards and subdivide them with horizontal lines to separate them from each other. The counter is done slightly differently, create a group aside from the rest of the rest of the kitchen unit and make it one object and paint it with the countertop texture of your choosing.

It's important to include these things to represent the furniture needed to fill each space and the flow of the house. The furniture should not be things you are modeling manually. Just grab them from the SketchUp warehouse.

Once your interior is complete for the schematic design phase its now time to focus on the exterior. Namely, the driveway. 

Bring your house model back into the terrain model. Next, create a plane large enough to cover the front of the house where the driveway will be located. Then intersect it with the house model to create the outline that you can work off of.

Next, hide your house model and change your perspective view to parallel perspective and look from the top viewport. Disable any layers that aren't necessary for this phase such as building setbacks etc. Make sure your main road, terrain contour lines and obstructions such as tree locations and large boulders. As well as hiding the terrain model or make it 2D.

Then, using the line tools you can begin to model the driveway, keep in mind the location of where it is located in tandem with the terrain contours. Meaning, find a spot that has a lower slope. Once you are fished modeling it save a copyright before you drape it on the terrain. 

Next, select the driveway and enable the terrain model and drape the driveway upon the terrain. Texture it beforehand if necessary 

SketchUp & Layout for Architecture | Roofs, Windows, Decks/Patio's, & Doors

When modeling the roof you want to only model the overall construction of the roof and not try to design the specifics. That will come in later. Model everything in the roof construction minus the tiles/shingles as they are not necessary for this step and will only get in the way. But add a shingle texture after for presentation.

If the roof is very complex or you are on a tight schedule don't worry about the roof segments intercepting each other. This stage of the design it doesn't matter any interior interceptions because all you need for this are the exterior elevations and if you make it too complicated it will make it more difficult to change it in the future.

The key is to keep it as simple as possible to make future changes go faster and with less time-consuming problems.

Make very rough estimations for the roof then clean them up before sending it to Layout for elevation and renderings.

For making decks and patios you want to bring your building back into the terrain model to reference it and decide how to go about creating them as it plays a huge part in placement and size. Like modeling the rest of the house only design the outer frame of the deck and not the finishes on top.

Making windows you only want to create a simple rectangle cut out and apply a glass texture to it or if you already have a window model you can bring that in but only do it if it's already cut to size. Don't spend too much time getting the exact framing of the windows and focus more on the whole shape.

Doors are slightly different. You want to cut out the size for a generic door and then model the approximate thickness of the door and rotate it in the middle of where it would swing. For example, if your front door swings inward when opened you would have it on a 45-degree angle inside the house and etc.

For doors, you want to be more precise and get the trim done (nothing fancy just a simple rectangular shape around the door) to emphasize the size